Fender Silverface Princeton Reverb

Model/Circuit Number: AB868, AB1270, AA1164 
Years of Production:
1968 – 1981
Era: Silverface
Configuration: Combo
Controls: Silver, forward facing w/ blue labels
Knobs: Black skirted w/ chrome center, numbered 1 – 10
Faceplate

  • Front: In, In, Vol, Treb, Bass, Rev, Speed, Intensity – Pilot Lamp
  • Rear: AC Outlet, Ground Sw, Fuse (1A), Power Sw, Speaker Jack, Ex. Speaker Jack, Vibrato Jack

Cabinet

  • Dimensions: 20” x 16”x 9½”
  • Hardware: Medium Chassis Straps 4 5/8”
  • Handle: Black Strap Handle
  • Feet: Glides
  • Corners: None

 

Covering Material

  • Tolex/Tweed: Black Tolex
  • Grill Cloth: 68 – 69 Blue Sparkle Grill Cloth with Aluminum Frame ; 70 – 75: Blue Sparkle Grill Cloth ; 76 – 80: Orange and Silver Grill Cloth

Logo: Grill mounted, raised, chrome & black script
Weight: 31 lbs.
Speaker

Effects: Reverb, Tremolo
~Watts: 12-15 watts
Tubes

  • Pre amp: 7025
  • Power: 2 x 6V6GT

Bias: Fixed, Nonadjustable
Rectifier: GZ34 (early) or 5U4GB (70s)

Comments: Fender switched back to the blackface era cosmetics some time in 1980. Princeton Reverbs produced between late 1980 and 1981 have a black control panel and silver sparkle grille cloth. A “Boost” pull switch was added to the Volume control around ’77

8 thoughts on “Fender Silverface Princeton Reverb

  • February 7, 2013 at 7:39 am
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    I have a Silverface 69-69 with drip edge, It has been chopped down to just a “head” configuration, needing an external speaker cabinet, which I have paired with a Celestion 70-80. Anyone know how this affects the value?

    Reply
    • September 8, 2015 at 12:17 pm
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      If your amp has bewn chopped and made into a head only, the value of resale is greatly lowered. It retains person value to anyone that wants to achieve that warm tube sound. I have a 75 silverface with an old altec lansing replacement speaker. I love this amp have it since 1980. Will never sell.

      Reply
      • November 22, 2017 at 10:49 am
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        Thanks, thought so re the value. The real important thing is the sound which is great.

        Reply
  • July 1, 2017 at 7:19 pm
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    I have one of these amps .I believe its a 69. I have had it for about 8 years and have yet to figure out what the ground switch on the back does. Any ideas?

    Reply
    • August 14, 2017 at 9:48 am
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      The ground switch was used (I believe) to switch which prong of the old 2 prong cord you would ground through. One side would have less hum than the other, depending. Don’t quote me on that.

      However! Does your amp currently have a 3-prong plug? If not, you should take it to a tech to have that done. The ground switch should be taken out of the circuit and made to be useless. If it does have a 3-prong plug, this has likely been done already.

      Reply
  • November 11, 2017 at 5:27 pm
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    Hey, Walter. Rob is exactly right. The ground selector switch lets you connect either conductor from an antique 2-conductor power cord to the chassis of the amp, through a capacitor. This is often called the “death cap,” because if it shorts out, and you just happen to have the ground selected to the “hot” conductor, the amp chassis is now at 120 V. So if you touch the strings on your guitar and something else that is grounded correctly, it completes the circuit – through your body (possibly stopping or fibrilating your heart).

    If the “death cap” is in perfect condition, it isn’t a problem. But as capacitors age (and many of them are 40 or 50 years old by now), it becomes more and more likely that they will either fail open or shorted. I agree with Rob, that the modern safety-minded logic is to remove the death cap (or just disconnect it from one end and leave it retired in place so that the amp “looks” original inside) and then correctly install a modern 3-conductor power cord.

    Of course, this only works if the outlet you are plugging into is wired correctly – which isn’t always the case. Luckily, outlet safety testers are easy to find. Just plug one into the outlet that you plan to use, and it tells you whether or not the outlet is wired correctly – by the response of a couple of LEDs.

    Reply
  • December 1, 2017 at 5:42 pm
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    Rob & Gary are both correct. But as an amp tech I highly recommend Rob suggestion of eliminating the Ground switch (and death cap) and installing a 3 pronged power cord.

    Reply
  • July 3, 2018 at 2:36 pm
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    Hi there. My 79 speaker is blown and trying to decide what I want to replace with. Will never sell so don’t care about value. Want to go 75 watts and I like a warm sound. I like all genres so want blues to playing something with aggression when I feel the need. Any suggestions?

    Reply

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